Climb on

2/13-2/15

Golden tree snake 

So we are back on the wall! With our friend Abdul that we met in Thehkek, Laos, we head to butterfly valley yet again. We are ticking off a lot of climbs in the valley, soon we will be out of climbs within our grade. We worked on a few of 6b’s as we had a chill day hanging with Abdul. Austin got on a 6b called Very Tot which became very interesting. After the first three bolts he ran into a snake on the wall, hidden in a crack just next the the climb. The beautiful yellow and black patterned little guy turned out to be a golden tree snake or a flying snake. They are nonvenomous but are quick to move and can jump out and grab things mid air. Of course, we didn’t know this at the time so after Austin spotted the snake he flew up two more bolts. He made it up to the last bolt before the anchor and was about to clip and be safe when his hand starte

d to slip. He tried to down climb but missed a foot hold, slipped off the rock and with his foot behind the rope he got flipped upside down as he fell. Abdul was belaying him and expertly gave Austin a bit of slack so if he fell he would clear a large tufa that was below him. Consequently Austin fell head first down almost half the climb but cleared all the hazards along the way. He swung in open space after letting out the highest pitch scream I have ever heard from a man. Still, after such a huge whipper, he was able to finish the climb but was a bit rattled for the rest of the day.

Abdul resting like a seal

The next day, we went back to our trusty spot. I made it my goal to start leading up more 6b’s and had a couple of climbs already picked out. I successfully made it up 3 climbs and now have 3 projects to ‘scend (climb with out falling). Austin followed up two of the climbs so that we could retrieve our quickdraws with ease and ended up leading a climb that he had fallen on the day before just shy of the anchors. He cruised the climb and was able to put it in the guide book as a proper ‘scend. After I finished my three climbs for the day, Austin was feeling well rested and decided to go for a climb called “Cracker Jack” a 6c (5.11a). He had been talking about this climb since we arrived to the valley on the first day but kept passing it saying he needed to be in the right mind and feeling good about it. I guess today was the day and he so he tied into the rope, chalked up and gave it a go. The start was steep with plenty of jugs making it wildly pumpy. He pushed through the first half the climb with ease and found a great knee bar before moving up to an awkward rest just below a over hung roof. Once pass this he quickly made his way to the next rest spot where he was able to sit in a cave and take a breather. The final few bolts were run out and continuous but soon he was at the jug next to the anchor. With the last bit of strength he was able to clip bolts and let out a celebratory yell! 

Nearing dark we headed on out and ended our day with a nice meal and a few well deserved beers. Bed time came pretty early for both of us being that we were both exhausted and needed some rest before tackling the valley again the next day.

This morning we woke up sore and therefore had a slow morning. We eventually made our way to a great cafe know as “My Way” for brunch which was absolutely amazing. Afterwards, we grabbed out passes and off to the valley we went. 

My new friends

Needing to warm up a bit we decided it would be best for Austin to retackle “Elephant Man” a 6b+ (5.10d) that he had fallen at the crux on a few days earlier. He started off smooth but once again got stumped at the crux (the hard part of the climb). A few scrambles back and forth and a few hand and foot adjustments opened up the sequence and him to advance through the crux. Now all he had to do was stay focused and finish the climb with out any slip ups. He had one close call but was able to save it and advanced all the way to the anchors giving him a ‘scend of the route. 

I went for my project but half way wasn't feeling it so came off to give my arms and mind a rest before giving it my all. In this time, Austin decided to go after a 6c+ (5.11b) called “Bolts are us”. He did wonderful until the huge dino (a jumping motion to the next hold). He went for the move but came up short. After a rest and a study of the route he went for it and made the move. Soon after he was at anchors with a big smile, although he did not ‘scend it, he was happy about making it to the top.

After this I decided I was ready to give my project another go. I had a smooth start and found good rest before the last few bolts which was the crux of the climb. A deep breath and off I went clipping the bolts through the hard part. After I successfully got the last draw in I knew I was so close to accomplishing my goal. Two high feet and a big reach to a not so good hold unlock the sequence. I had made it through the crux! Now all I had to do was step up to the ledge and clip the anchor. Before going to it I took a deep breath and made sure my hands and feet were solid. Clipping bolts was a wonderful feeling, the wave of emotion was powerful. I had successfully led my first 6b clean all the way! 

Austin wanted to cool down a bit so we agreed on getting back on a classic climb called “Mother Butterfly a 6a+ (5.10b). He led it with ease and I followed and cleaned the route. Man is it a wonderful line. Feeling good about our day and our success we decided to call it there and head back for a beer and some life maintenance time at our hotel. We are here now relaxing and enjoying a movie. Tomorrow the plan is to rent a boat and go out to the bay for some beach climbs. Stay tuned as we are sure there will be tales of adventure to share about this unique experience in Halong Bay. Until then…..