Island Life

2/6-2/7

Cat Ba has four locations to climb on the main island and ten locations out in Ha Long Bay. It also has plenty of deep water soloing but unfortunately the season is not right for that now. The tides are too low and the temperatures are as well. Each location on the main island of Cat Ba requires a pass that you must purchase from the local climb shop because the crags are on private lands.

Butterfly Valley

Robyn and I spent our first days climbing in Butterfly Valley which is located about 30 minutes outside of Cat Ba town via motor bike. Getting there our first day went pretty smooth to our surprise. The new (as in 2 weeks fresh off the press) guidebook for the area gave us step by step directions with a few photos to follow. Couldn't of been easier! Driving there we passed through a busy market street full of locals buying things in prep for the upcoming New Year celebrations (Vietnamese/Lunar New Year). After that we passed through a few small village towns and a work-in-progress road that was recently cut through the mountain side. Our last bit of the adventure took us up and down rolling hills through far lands and ended with us in the beautiful valley. We followed signs for "The Hive,"the small climbers hangout owned and run by the family who owned the land and the big farm you walked through to reach the craig.

Guide Book

We parked our motor bike on the last bit of cement which was surrounded by bonsai trees and stag horns. We were quickly met by one of the owners of the property who we gave our pass to and learned in which direction we were meant to go to get to the crag. A short walk from there led us through an open field with cows tied to ropes grazing and laying about. Once through the field we headed up a small trail that took us to the wall where we picked out our first climbs.

We started on a 5c to warm up and learn the style of climbing, but quickly were confused by a tricky start that required awkward balance moves with big reaches. After both leading the climb we were happy we had started easy but our confidence had been knocked down a bit because of the puzzling route. I (Austin) decided to climb it once more to regain confidence. After being lowered, I started to pull the rope down from the route but realized I had left a knot in the end of the rope that was then half way up the wall.  I couldn't climb up and retrieve it so I ended up using the other end of the rope and lead the climb again to rescue our rope. I guess three times really is a charm.

Coolest commute to a crag

Next, I decided on a 6b which ended up being pumpy but more straight forward and of the style climbing we have become used to from being in Southeast Asia. Check that one off as an on-sight! I also climbed a 6c+ which kicked my butt a bit but I am excited to work more on it so I can climb it smoother. I later learned it had once been considered a 7a. Since we were getting worked hard by the wall, we opted for another tricky and a bit awkward 5c, followed by a fun 6a that required some route finding and interesting movement.

That night, both tired from climbing as well as traveling still, we opted for balcony time with a few beers, cookies and chips. Bed time came pretty soon that night and we both slept in the next day.

Once up and going, we grabbed a quick breakfast of Pho (noodle soup) and coffee, grabbed our pass, and then headed back out to the beautiful Butterfly Valley. Sore from our first day we decided to play it a bit easier. We climbed a really fun classic 4 called "Roots Reggae" named appropriated because you actually climb the roots of this tree growing off the side of the rock wall. We then hopped of some really fun and slabby 5a's. Once warmed up and feeling good, we both led a fun 6a+/6b which required some technical balance moves that were definitely committing. We ended our day with a fun yet sustained 6b.

Woodstock Beach view

Before heading back into town we decided to go on a short motor bike ride to explore some more of the island. We ended up following a road that wound through a mountain pass and ended at a neat beach called Woodstock located in a beautiful bay. Sun was setting, making for wonderful views all around. After a short walk on the beach and a few snapped pictures we headed back to grab food which we were both in need of.

We grabbed cheap sandwiches from a street vender and then headed over to a restaurant for some spring rolls and amazing Vietnamese coffees over sunset. Tonight there will be a celebration to bring in the New Year so we are hoping we can stay up to enjoy the festivities, mainly the fireworks. Two New Year celebrations in one year, who knew it....

Again stay tuned, for we have more adventures to share about this beautiful place.

Cat Ba sunset