Same Same but VERY Different

1/2-5/2016

Wow same same but very different. As we made our way closer to the lonely patch of cement surrounded by dried rice fields in the short flight to Vientiane, we realized that Laos was way less developed than Thailand. After a short line in Immigrations and 35 US dollars, we were through with a one month visa stamp in our passports. The adventure of Laos had begun! We found an ATM that worked for our foreign cards (harder then it sounds) and instantly became “millionaires” (8000 kip to the US dollar).  We were able to connect up with some girls from the states and we all split a private van with air-condition to make our slow but exciting journey north to Vang Vieng. 

We rode through the capital on roads that were once paved but are now covered in table-sized potholes. A few near misses on mountain roads and many bumps later, we found ourselves in “city center” of Vang Vieng. We said our good byes to our new friends we had gotten to know through out the four hour van ride and off into the streets we went to find a place to stay. We soon realized finding a place to stay during the holiday season is near impossible. Hostels and guest houses made it easy for us and put “full” signs outside their door. One hour later our packs began to feel heavier and heavier. We reached the edge of town and found a place with only one room left that we were quick to take it.

We walked around and found some good street food and did some investigation into the climbing in the area which was the main reason of our visit. We soon found out that it may be harder to get to the crags than we had originally anticipated. All the crags required lots of fees due to private land crossings and getting to the other side of the river via bridges or boats. So, instead of climbing our first day we decided that tubing was a much easier and fun option. 

Tubing was a wild experience not because of the river itself but what surrounded the banks of this slow flowing waterway. Locals were out fishing the eddies with nets and spears but even more interesting were the locals out fishing for customers. As we floated by, they threw throw-bags made from a soda bottle and string out to us and pulled us into their bank side bar. Yes, we were reeled in via a bottle on a rope to a bar where we were encouraged to enjoy a nice strong mixed drink before continuing our float. We had no idea that this is what we signed up for but we embraced it.  We floated down and found a few more river side bars, some bars were actually in the river. There were even more closed down shacks on the way. We learned later on that Vang Vieng used to be famous for its party seen. The locals got fed up with westerners coming in and getting out of hand. There were quite a few deaths from drunk people drowning or making bad decisions as well. The government came in and started cleaning up the town. Local businesses started pushing for more ecotourism in the area and clearing out the party culture. I believe this push only began in 2013 so there are still remnants of the old ways.

The rest of our time was spent sleeping in, walking around rice fields, avoiding fees, and trying to figure out why so many Koreans were in this small town in the middle of Laos. We succeeded in all of these activities. We slept a lot, never payed to cross a river or a private piece of property and solved the mystery of so many Koreans. First, I must explain the Korean invasion in the town. It all stemmed from a reality tv show in Korea were they visited the local lagoon.  Fans of the show made it a goal to travel here and take a dip in the very same water as their beloved tv heroes.  We never did climb, not out of laziness or even sore muscles but due to access problems. We got mixed information on how to get to the crag without a guide or how to avoid local kids from trying to take your gear.  Four days in Vang Vieng was enough and we were ready to head North to Luang Phrabang.