Climb on

2/13-2/15

Golden tree snake 

So we are back on the wall! With our friend Abdul that we met in Thehkek, Laos, we head to butterfly valley yet again. We are ticking off a lot of climbs in the valley, soon we will be out of climbs within our grade. We worked on a few of 6b’s as we had a chill day hanging with Abdul. Austin got on a 6b called Very Tot which became very interesting. After the first three bolts he ran into a snake on the wall, hidden in a crack just next the the climb. The beautiful yellow and black patterned little guy turned out to be a golden tree snake or a flying snake. They are nonvenomous but are quick to move and can jump out and grab things mid air. Of course, we didn’t know this at the time so after Austin spotted the snake he flew up two more bolts. He made it up to the last bolt before the anchor and was about to clip and be safe when his hand starte

d to slip. He tried to down climb but missed a foot hold, slipped off the rock and with his foot behind the rope he got flipped upside down as he fell. Abdul was belaying him and expertly gave Austin a bit of slack so if he fell he would clear a large tufa that was below him. Consequently Austin fell head first down almost half the climb but cleared all the hazards along the way. He swung in open space after letting out the highest pitch scream I have ever heard from a man. Still, after such a huge whipper, he was able to finish the climb but was a bit rattled for the rest of the day.

Abdul resting like a seal

The next day, we went back to our trusty spot. I made it my goal to start leading up more 6b’s and had a couple of climbs already picked out. I successfully made it up 3 climbs and now have 3 projects to ‘scend (climb with out falling). Austin followed up two of the climbs so that we could retrieve our quickdraws with ease and ended up leading a climb that he had fallen on the day before just shy of the anchors. He cruised the climb and was able to put it in the guide book as a proper ‘scend. After I finished my three climbs for the day, Austin was feeling well rested and decided to go for a climb called “Cracker Jack” a 6c (5.11a). He had been talking about this climb since we arrived to the valley on the first day but kept passing it saying he needed to be in the right mind and feeling good about it. I guess today was the day and he so he tied into the rope, chalked up and gave it a go. The start was steep with plenty of jugs making it wildly pumpy. He pushed through the first half the climb with ease and found a great knee bar before moving up to an awkward rest just below a over hung roof. Once pass this he quickly made his way to the next rest spot where he was able to sit in a cave and take a breather. The final few bolts were run out and continuous but soon he was at the jug next to the anchor. With the last bit of strength he was able to clip bolts and let out a celebratory yell! 

Nearing dark we headed on out and ended our day with a nice meal and a few well deserved beers. Bed time came pretty early for both of us being that we were both exhausted and needed some rest before tackling the valley again the next day.

This morning we woke up sore and therefore had a slow morning. We eventually made our way to a great cafe know as “My Way” for brunch which was absolutely amazing. Afterwards, we grabbed out passes and off to the valley we went. 

My new friends

Needing to warm up a bit we decided it would be best for Austin to retackle “Elephant Man” a 6b+ (5.10d) that he had fallen at the crux on a few days earlier. He started off smooth but once again got stumped at the crux (the hard part of the climb). A few scrambles back and forth and a few hand and foot adjustments opened up the sequence and him to advance through the crux. Now all he had to do was stay focused and finish the climb with out any slip ups. He had one close call but was able to save it and advanced all the way to the anchors giving him a ‘scend of the route. 

I went for my project but half way wasn't feeling it so came off to give my arms and mind a rest before giving it my all. In this time, Austin decided to go after a 6c+ (5.11b) called “Bolts are us”. He did wonderful until the huge dino (a jumping motion to the next hold). He went for the move but came up short. After a rest and a study of the route he went for it and made the move. Soon after he was at anchors with a big smile, although he did not ‘scend it, he was happy about making it to the top.

After this I decided I was ready to give my project another go. I had a smooth start and found good rest before the last few bolts which was the crux of the climb. A deep breath and off I went clipping the bolts through the hard part. After I successfully got the last draw in I knew I was so close to accomplishing my goal. Two high feet and a big reach to a not so good hold unlock the sequence. I had made it through the crux! Now all I had to do was step up to the ledge and clip the anchor. Before going to it I took a deep breath and made sure my hands and feet were solid. Clipping bolts was a wonderful feeling, the wave of emotion was powerful. I had successfully led my first 6b clean all the way! 

Austin wanted to cool down a bit so we agreed on getting back on a classic climb called “Mother Butterfly a 6a+ (5.10b). He led it with ease and I followed and cleaned the route. Man is it a wonderful line. Feeling good about our day and our success we decided to call it there and head back for a beer and some life maintenance time at our hotel. We are here now relaxing and enjoying a movie. Tomorrow the plan is to rent a boat and go out to the bay for some beach climbs. Stay tuned as we are sure there will be tales of adventure to share about this unique experience in Halong Bay. Until then….. 

Access Denied

2/11-2/12

Words from the recovering sick kid (Robyn)

Bodies have a funny way of telling you SLOW DOWN! The past couple of off days we have had were to help me recover from a darn common cold. Austin had to brave the pharmacy where language barriers get taken to a whole new level. He did get his hands on some decongestant and cough suppressant after acting out the best he could my symptoms. It is really easy here to get what you need without a prescription, everything is over the counter. The pharmacist even tried to give Austin Valium when he attempted to act out what a sore throat and sinus head aches looked like! 

After a day and half off from climbing, we decided to head to a climb spot called “The Farm”. The Farm is close enough to town you can even walk there. Lucky us though, we hopped on our motor bike and cruised down a residential road that turned into a dirt path. Our guide book told us to leave our bike to the side of the path and walk on in. The Farm, like a majority of Cat Ba’s climb spots, was on private property. Because of this, sometimes you have to pay to access the area. We were told we were good to go but if someone does approach you, it might be a small charge. As we gathered our stuff to continue on foot, a local man drove up on his bike shaking his head no. We showed him our guide book and made the sign for rock climbing but he told us “No”, pulled out his cell phone and made a call. Austin was given the phone with the local business owner for a new climb/tour shop in town on the other end. He explained that we had to buy a pass through his shop and was very confused on how we new about the area. There were a lot of miscommunications due to language barriers over the phone so the the fella hung up saying “I will just meet you out there.” Austin gave the phone back to the owner of the farm and just looked at me confused. I gave him the “lets just go look” and with a nod we both apologized to the owner and headed out on our bike. On our way back to town we passed a westerner and a local on a bike, doing a double take when we passed. Climbers here stick out like a sore thumb with our obscure shaped packs and climbing helmets on. 

We cruised back to where our buddies worked and where we got our guide book to re-plan our day. As we got off the bike behind us pulled in the two fellas (the same ones who took a double take) on a bike who turned out to be the owners of the new climb shop in town. They asked us a bit aggressively what we were doing in the farm and how we even knew about it. We showed them our guide book and that we were told by other climbers that we were fine to go there. They gave the book a bit of a guffaw, explaining that there are way more routes then our book depicts and that the climb shop shouldn’t be sending people out there (even though they were the ones who had bolted the wall). If we wanted to go we had to buy a pass through them (the two on the bike) and park in a designated area where we would turn it in at the sight (none of which is set up yet-so we would of likely been told to leave either way). They became very apologetic (again motor bike guys), explaining that they want climbers to come and enjoy the climbs at the farm. They urged us to come over to their shop and get a pass at which point we simply told them we would come by another day and needed a minute to plan our day. 

This whole conversation took place in front of the climb shop that  our buddies worked at and who had established the rest of the climbing areas in Cat Ba. So once they had left we turned around and retold the whole story to several employees/friends that were sitting and watching the whole thing. The employees at the climb shop told us their perspective to this small town political problem which left us in a situation where it would be silly to choose sides so we were better off just going to climb else where. (We apologize if this was confusing for we did not feel comfortable mentioning the names of the two shops involved.)

After witnessing what felt like a child custody battle, we headed off the trusty butterfly valley. Austin warmed up on a 6a and pushed me to top rope it. I floundered around for a while, feeling like a goopy sick-kid, then decided to just belay for the day. Luckily Josh, one of the employees, from our trusty climb shop, came upon us and asked to join. I was happy to slide off my harness and watch Josh push Austin to his limit.  Josh is a really strong climber and was climbing 7a’s and 7b’s while recovering from an injury.  At the end of the day, Austin led a 7a (5.11c/d), 7a+(5.12a), a 6c+ (5.11d), and top roped another 7a. After that he could barely grip the accelerator on the motor bike to get us home.  

After a day like that, we planned on taking it easy for a day. Thank god it was raining to keep us off the wall. We tried our best to have a proper rest day just eating food and laying low but after the rain subsided we had to get just one climb in so we cruised over to Ban Bao which is a harbor town within walking distance from Cat Ba town. Our buddies who work out here live at a hotel on the water and right next to the wall we climbed. While climbing mist continue to blow in and tourist crowded the dock taking pictures. Feeling uncomfortable do to weather and pressure of tourist watching, we got in one wet route and called it good. The climbing continues! Its been a fun way to explore this island so far!