Jira's Homestay

3/3/16

Robyn and I slept well in our mosquito net covered beds, formally know as the “Princess Palace”. We in fact slept so well we did not wake up until around 9 am. Once up and moving we went to the outside restaurant here and ordered a couple omelets and coffee. The coffee was amazing! It was brewed in served in a percolator. 

Trail to Heart Wall

After eating our enormous omelets and drinking several mugs of coffee, we were eager to get our climbing on. Before leaving the homestay though we decided to order lunch to go so that we could stay out at the crag all day. The servings here at Jira’s homestay are giant, usually enough for two people to feast on. Once we got our tupperware we grabbed our climbing gear and headed off to the rocks. By this time it was nearly 10:30 am, a really late start for us, but seemed the norm around the homestay. We were surprised to still see people getting their days started when we arrived to breakfast and to be heading out to the crag before most. 

Once to the parking lot we headed to the furthest wall called “Heart Wall,” which was located a 20 minute walk up hill on the other side of the mountain from the rest of the walls. We huffed and puffed our way through the bamboo forest eventually finding the crag. Still getting used to the heat and not hiking as much, we struggled some what. The struggle, although real, was well worth it when we finally arrived to wall. A 40 meter tall band of rock perfectly protruding from the side of the mountain begging to be climbed. So, thats what we did. 

Another crazy bug

We headed to the far left end of the wall where a series of new climbs had recently been developed. This end of the wall required a bit of scrambling through unsteady rocks to gain access to the bottom of the climb where a small ledge is all you had to put your rope and gear. Because of the small belay area, the developers were smart and added an anchor at the bottom of the climb so that you could attach yourself to prevent from falling down the hill.

The first two climbs of the day were meant to be easy warm ups for both of us but in fact turned out to both be a little harder and more tricky than expected. They were both rated a 5c which is a grade Robyn and I are both comfortable with but these two particular climbs seemed more difficult to both of us. Once to the top of the climbs you were awarded a wonderful view of a valley filled with houses and a few temples. You could also see several mountain ranges off in the distance. 

After the two “warm ups”, I went after a steep and fun looking 6a+. It started off with balance moves, moved into jugs with big reaches, followed by a committing move at the top over a small roof and finished on a tricky technical section at the anchors. It was one of the more entertaining climbs that I have done in a long time. Robyn followed on the climb and did so really smoothly figuring out the movement with little effort. 

Getting later in the afternoon we decided to take a break and enjoy our lunch we had brought out and ponder what to do next. As we sat and ate our lunch the sun started to peak over the cliffs edge making it much hotter. It was soon shining on the wall and both of us not wanting to sweat off the wall and battle the sun decided that it would be best to go else where and find shade. We were recommended a climb that was on the other side from us close to the parking lot so we grabbed all of our belongings and headed that direction. 

Chimney Sweep

Back in the parking lot, we took a quick pit stop to refill our water bottles and to empty the bladders. A five minute walk brought us to the wall where the climb was we had been recommended but we were met by a sea of children and a land of top ropes hanging from every climb. They were an international school on a guided trip. The guides told us that they would soon be leaving so we just went to the crag just next to it and enjoyed some easier climbing while we waited. 

After two really enjoyable climbs we headed back over and found a lot different scene. A quiet wall with a bamboo hut next to it and just one other couple climbing. We laid out our rope at the bottom of “Chimney Sweep”  and both gave it a lead. It was well worth the wait! A unique climb that required some interesting movement to make it to the top. Afterwards we ended our day on a climb called “Samurai”.

The end of Chimney Sweep

A ten minute walk brought us back to Jira’s where we relaxed and a had a beer until dinner time.   We soon became hungry and joined the rest of the climbers staying here for a nice family style dinner. We joined a few tables together and all sat together talking about the days adventures and our travels. It was great! Robyn and I ordered a Coconut chicken soup with rice to share, which once again was plenty to satisfy our hunger. When ordering, I had a fun experience with the owners son who was taking orders and helping in the restaurant. He spoke a little english and was practicing with everyone as they ordered. He practice with me by asking, “What is your name?” to which I responded “I’m Austin.” He then said, “Nice to meet you Im-Austin”. I simply smiled and said, “No, No Austin” and pointed to myself. He laughed and said “Sorry , you Austin and me Phunn” then proceeded to give me a high five.

That night we all joined around a campfire and listen to people play music, tell stories, and even crack a joke here and there. Although it was still hot from the days heat, nothing can beat a nice campfire with friends after a good day climbing. Remember this: When life gives you lemons, make lemonade and when it throws you a curve ball just swing a little different.