Nam Pha Pa Yai Climbers' Camp

2/22-25/16

The view from the top of the crag

We have been here at Nam Pha Pa Yai for four days now and have climbed everyday. Nam Pha  Pa Yai translates to “river camp big forest”. In total, we have climbed 28 pitches and 24 different routes. We have climbed at three of the four crags here with two of them being by the Pasak river and the other one in a bamboo forest near the camp. 

Access to the climb

Each morning, our day starts off with lots of stretching and chilling out before breakfast is severed at 8am. Once done with breakfast, we head off to the crags. This means grabbing our climbing gear and a zip line pulley before heading down to the rivers edge. Once there, we climb into a wooden platform attached to a tree high above the river and attach ourselves to a cable that stretches from one bank to the other. ZOOOMMM!!! Off you go, zipping across the beautiful Pasak river to the other side where a wall of beautiful limestone awaits you.

Hanging up sweaty gear

By noon or shortly after, we head back to the other side for lunch. This again means another zip line experience across the river. I enjoy having to go back and forth for climbing and camp visits as I really enjoy zip lining. Robyn, who before this place really did not care for zip lining at all, has found a way to somewhat enjoy it. As you approach the take off areas for your zip you always pass this sign that says “Do Not use the Zip Line for FUN!” I cant help but laugh at this, as each time is always fun. Sometimes, I even find myself forgetting things or needing to use the toilet just so I can zip line one extra time during the day. 

Our new "Best Friend"

After lunch, we usually take a long break to let the hot part of the day pass. During this time, we play board games, read, chat, or play with the camp dogs.There is a puppy here that both Robyn and I love and kinda want to take with us for the rest of our travels. In the afternoon, we manage to get in a few more climbs before either the heat gets to us or the sun starts to make its way over the edge of the cliffs. 

Night time is my favorite here. It starts with a nice cool shower after hanging up the sweaty gear by our tent. This is usually followed by some down time to either read, play cards, internet, or chat with the only other camper here besides us. Gerald is an older fellow from Germany. He has been biking his way through Southeast Asia as well as climbing. Being such a strong climber, we enjoy having him join us each day because if we can not put up a route, he usually is willing and able.

Austin Leading a 6a (Sadao)

Night time also means dinner which is my favorite here. Joy’s (camp host) mother cooks dinner every night which always consist of rice and usually some type of curry. Man is it sooo good! Not only is it unbelievably good, it is buffet style, all you can eat! Being only three of us, means we can eat until we simply can not fit anymore into our bodies. This truly is a climbers’ dream. Being on the rock all day you burn an amazing amount of calories. 

Tomorrow is our last full day here before heading off to Chiang Mai. We leave around 8pm to the near by town and catch an eight hour long night bus. This means we have one more day to enjoy here climbing and eating wonderful food. Robyn and I are planning on getting on the only multi-pitch here which takes you to the top of the cliff overlooking the river valley. 

We are both looking forward to some “tourist” time in Chiang Mai and Pai, as our bodies are both in need of some rest from climbing. Im sure there will be stories to be told so keep checking in! 

Researching other crags in Thailand

Good-Bye Vietnam!

2/21-22/16

A lot has happened in the last two days. We have flown to a new country, said buy to friends, become more confident with public transportation, found a camp in the middle of no where, and even climbed. We are now back in Thailand where the whole adventure began, except this time we are here to explore the north.

Robyn and I left early on the morning of the 21st from our hostel with a prearranged taxi. Upon arrival at the airport we quickly made our way through the ticket counter where we check in for our flight and ensured our bags were under the allowed weight. With boarding passes in hand we were off to immigration to get our passports stamped and go through security. We made it through all of the process with no problems and at a record speed. This meant we had plenty of time to cruise the airport looking for ways to spend the last of our Vietnamese currency. 

Enjoying the Train

Robyn ended up buying some coffee, chewing gum, and Tiger Balm. These happen to be the three best items one can buy in airport to get rid of currency. Coffee is a must buy in Vietnam, gum kicks butt on airplanes, and Tiger Balm is so cheap and so good for the sore achy body. Side Note: For those unfamiliar with Tiger Balm, its the worlds greatest rub on cream that cools and numbs any pain in joints or muscles. (Great for climbers!) Basically, you gain tiger powers!

I ended up spending the last bit of my currency on a Popeye’s chicken tender combo with mashed potatoes and coke. Still hungry, I grabbed a vanilla ice cream cone. I helped with the purchase of a lunch for Robyn as well, a simple chicken sandwich with fries and a coke. She soon realized although a Popeye’s sandwich it was a sandwich none the less and thoroughly enjoyed it. We were soon leaving the side of Southeast Asia with good bread and back to the land of rice. Funny the things you miss after traveling. For us this is good bread and oh yeah, good beer.

We made it on the plane and an hour and forty five minutes later we were in Bangkok. Once there we had to go through immigration. In Bangkok, immigration lines are always long and hectic but this time it went pretty smooth. With in thirty minutes we both had our passports stamped and were on the way to baggage claim and the nearest ATM to withdraw bahts (Thai currency). Once we had our bags we headed to the information desk to inquire about a Thailand SIM card and to double check our plans for getting to the climbers camp north of Bangkok. We confirmed that we had to catch a series of buses to the train station before heading north to Keang Khoi (the nearest town to the camp). 

We made it!

After heading outside the airport we waited for a few minutes to catch the free shuttle to the bus station where we were meant to hop on either bus 554 or 555 to get to the train station we needed to go north. As soon as the shuttle dropped us off, we were surrounded by many gentlemen offering us taxis to various locations, ensuring us that it was easier and cheaper. Being veterans by now we new it was nothing more than a scam so we continued our search of the local bus 555 or 554. Being that there was no 555 bus we assumed, 554 must be the one. We hopped on and waited until more people including the bus driver got on the bus. We showed several people a piece of paper that had “Train Station to Kaeng Khoi” written in Thai in which they shook their heads yes to. 

Soon the bus was off and keeping our fingers crossed we followed ourselves on gps as we headed through Bangkok. Being a local bus, it stopped many times letting people on and off the bus. We were the only two westerners on this bus and we stuck out like a sore thumb. About an hour past before making it to the train station where the bus without hesitation stopped and several people pointed us off and said “This you”. We thanked everybody on the bus for looking out for us, grabbed our bags and hopped off heading up the stairs of the train station. 

After finding the ticket office we told him where we wanted to go and for 60 bahts he gave us two tickets and pointed to the other side of the tracks. This we assumed meant go there and wait. Again, multiple people looked at our ticket and when the next train came made sure we got on it and found a seat. Trains in Thailand are packed! We walked through two entire cars unable to turn around with our big bags until we found the cafe car. We were invited to sit down and throw our luggage above. Feeling as though we had to buy something since we were sitting at a non crowed table in a less than busy car, we opted for two cokes. Wow were we lucky, everywhere else in this train was crazy full, people four to five a row with some even standing in the isle. The cafe employee allowed us to stay and so we enjoyed our two hour ride north eating sunflower seeds, drinking soda, enjoying the views out of our open window and playing cards. 

Nam Pha Pa Yai Restaurant 

Two hours flew by and so did several train stops. As we neared our stop several locals informed us and even the gentleman working on the train checking tickets came over and warned us it was up next. Feeling grateful and excited that we had almost completed what seemed impossible just hours earlier, we hopped off and headed to find a couple motorbike taxis. We went to where we were told they would be from our research and what do you know, they were there. They knew exactly where we were headed (this town is not a common westerners stop) and a few bahts later Robyn and I hopped onto two separate bikes and were off into the sunset toward what we hoped was the right place. It is amazing how much trust we have for people in Southeast Asia, it always works out and they are always so willing to answer any questions and make sure you get where you are going or what you need. 

Holding ourselves onto the back of a small motor bike with nearly 25 kilos of weight is simply hard. We both barely fit onto our motorbike taxis and had to hold on tight as they made the 20 kilometer trek out to the camp. As darkness fell upon us we were headed up a dirt road far off the beaten path into what seem to be a beautiful valley. Finally, lights shined in the distance and we pulled up to a clay hut restaurant with the name “Nam Pha Pa Yai”. We had made it, nearly 12 hours later from when we left Hanoi, Vietnam, we were finally here! We sat our bags down and were greeted by our host, Joy. There were only a few people at the camp making it a quite and peaceful environment.  After a quick run down of the place, she took us to our new home for the next week, a sweet tent on a raised platform overlooking the river valley. Robyn and I high-fived with excitement knowing we had figured it out public transportation!

We soon learned we had made it just in time for dinner which made Robyn and I two very happy individuals. Buffet style! I ate more than I had eaten since leaving the states that night. We had a beer over dinner to celebrate our near flawless adventure. Bed came early as it does a lot here.

Zipline Gear

The next morning, we woke up and ate breakfast before heading off to do some climbing. The crag here at “Nam Pha Pa Yai” is located across the river from camp which means the only way there and back is a zipline! This I love, Robyn not so much. After we both successfully made it across the river we went to the map of the crag and picked out a few climbs. We started on a 6a which was extremely long and a little difficult to navigate. After that we did a 6a+ and a 5+ which we both found fun. After only three climbs, we were exhausted and ready for lunch. We have not climbed in hot temperatures in along time and it showed. The heat and the sun kicked our butts and used up a lot of our chalk as we kept sweating off each hold. We again zip lined back across the river and headed up to the restaurant.  

Lunch was great, a mixed salad with chicken and lots of really cold water. Being the hottest part of the day, we decided that a few board games would be a nice way to beat the heat before a few more climbs in the afternoon. We played a few games of Mancala and Connect Four as we consumed what seemed endless amounts of water from the cooler. We soon braved the heat and set off for a new crag one that actually wasn't across the river but rather just on the outskirts of camp in a bamboo forest. The crag was full of easy climbs which we both were down for being that the heat was still kicking our butts. We made it through a few more climbs which were enjoyable but finally gave into heat exhaustion and headed back to camp. 

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We both headed straight for the showers and enjoyed a cold shower to refresh ourselves and clean ourselves of all the sweat we had been pouring out all day. After showers we sat around in the shade enjoying hammocks and books. We did this until dinner time where we once again ate maybe a little too much. Its so good here that its hard to stop once you get going. 

Home, sweet, home!

Now it is nearly 9pm and we are the only ones here at the camp. Everyone has left but us and of course Joy (the host) and her family. We have been told more climbers are to be coming soon but Joy is unsure if they actually will. Either way its nice having the place to our own. Being in a quiet place in the middle of a beautiful river valley in the middle of Thailand is a wild feeling but one we are liking so far. Off to a movie and another good nights sleep. Sleep is great here as you pass out to the sounds of geckos, insects, birds, and the occasional howl of a dog.

Of course as we always say, stay tuned as this adventure keeps getting better and better!

Rocks, Friends, and Views

2/17-2/20

On the seventeenth , Robyn and I woke up and met Kelsey, our friend from Canada, for breakfast. After chowing down, we made the decision to take it easier and stay closer to town for climbing. This meant only one spot, the Cave, a fun crag with only a few climbs on it. We cruised over to the site on our motorbikes and parked them just outside the house we had to go through to access the climbs. We head


ed up the hill and decided to start on a 6a+ (5.10b). It was short and sweet with one hard move at the top. Next, we jumped on a 6b (5.10c) which through me for a loop at the top. I miss the holds needed to make it to the anchors successfully. Trying to grab on to small crimps to clip anchors, I took a few falls before finding the right ones. I clipped anchors finally and lowered feeling a bit let down that I had not climbed more smoothly. I soon shook it off though and realized that it was still a blast. Climbing meant more to me than just getting every climb clean. It was more about the idea of facing fears and getting to places only few get to experience.

Kelsey wanted to hop on a few more climbs before calling it quits, so she hoped on a 6b (5.10c) and a 6a (5.10a) on the other side of the cave. Robyn and I were feeling the days prior pretty heavily and decided to call it good and rest. I offered to belay Kelsey on her two final climbs. They went well, except for the first few bolts of the 6b (5.10c). High above her second bolt making her way to the next clip, she grabbed a dirty pocket causing her to slip off the climb and fall almost all the way back to the ground. Seeing this and hearing her yell “FALLING”, I was able to suck in a bit of rope in my belay device preventing her from decking (hitting the ground). She was inches from a boulder at the bottom of the climb. Being such a huge fall, it literally jerked me off the ground and left us both suspended and swinging around. After realizing how close of a call it was to a serious injury, we took a deep breath and continued on with the climb. Being both full of adrenaline, we were on a our “A” game. She made it to the top with out any other problems or falls. Seeing her pass the second bolt again, I was extremely nervous but as she clipped into the third I was able to calm down knowing that a decking potential was now out of the picture. 

View from the roof of our Hotel

Having enough excitement for the day, we headed out and grabbed a bite to eat. Kelsey chilled out in town the remainder of the day and Robyn and I cruised out to the National Park for a hike to a mountain peak. When we arrived, we walked to the ticket counter to buy passes. Robyn was told “No it was too late” . After a quick look at my watch, I was shocked to see it was nearly 4pm. Where had the day gone? Since we were already there and nearing the end of our time on the island, we reasoned with the lady in the ticket booth telling her we could easily make the 2km (under a mile) hike to the top and down with in the hour before they closed. Without argument, she sold us our tickets, told us to be back before 5pm and off we went. Walking at a fast pace we made it to the top in about twenty minutes. We took a couple pictures and took in the view of all the mountains all around the island. As far as you could see in every direction were jungle covered mountains and towering limestone karst. To say the least, it was breath taking and not just because we had practically run up the mountain. We soon left and were back at the front gates with 5 minutes to spare. Getting close to sunset we cruised back to town for a bite to eat. 

The eighteenth was our last day climbing in Cat Ba Island. We again went back to Butterfly Valley to tackle a few more climbs that I wanted to check off the list. Having climbed everything 6b (5.10c) and easier, there were a few harder climbs I wanted to go after. We started on a climb called “Brooklyn Buddha” a 6c+ (5.11b). Usually, I would warm up on an easier climb but today I decided against it to ensure I had every bit of muscle energy for each climb. This particular climb was a good one to start with because it was easy going at first leading to a hard sustained finish. All was going well for me as I clipped my way up through the bolts getting closer and closer to the anchor. About  half way up the climb I hit first of two crux, again this being the hard parts of the climb usually giving the climb its grade. I stood on a solid ledge for a few minutes puzzled by the movement  and wanting to get it dialed in before advancing up the climb. After a few goes at the next bolt I finally got the movement and headed upward. From the ledge, I moved into  a crack that was only good for just your finger tips to get all while standing on a slab with crap feet. I quickly moved higher and higher moving into the last crux which I successfully placed my quickdraw into the bolt before attempting. Getting exhausted, I had to move quick and as I committed to the move, truly believing that I was going to get my first 6c+ clean on the first go, I slipped off the hold taking a small fall. Feeling a little defeated yet excited that I was so close, I jumped right back on the wall and made the move advancing to the anchors finishing the first climb of the day. Although not perfect, I lowered off the climb with a big smile feeling as though I had made huge progress throughout my trip here in Southeast Asia. Once to the ground, I also had learned from a fellow climber and employee of our go to climb shop that the climb was once considered a 7a (5.11d) but recently had been down graded for whatever reason. With this news, my smile grew even larger. Kelsey hopped on the climb next and ran up smoothly until the very end where she took a fall in the same spot. 

Cat Co. 4 Beach

Robyn feeling wrecked (sore muscles) from accomplishing her climbs the days before, opted out of this one. With this, we moved on to next climb which I had already done once before. “Buffalo Love” is the name and 7a+ (5.12a) was the game. I wanted to give it one last go simply because it was such a fabulous climb, plus I wanted to see if I could do it without any falls. A 25 meter climb up a perfect layback crack led to a big move over a roof in the route before moving into the last technical balanced moves at the anchors. Kelsey gave it a go first and looked smooth as she approached the crux, the move over the roof about half way up. Unfortunately, she did not get high enough feet and took a fall. Wanting to get it clean, she decided to lower down and get a rest while I gave it a go. I put on my shoes, grabbed a few quickdraws, tied in, and chalked up. I took a deep breath and a double checked everything before I started up the climb. I moved smooth through the first half of the climb and soon found myself at the crux where just minutes before Kelsey had fallen. For some unknown reason, my nerves started taking over and my right leg started to “Elvis” (shake uncontrollably). I had to replace my foot as it was wiggling off the crucial hold I needed to make the big move. Having wasted energy and feeling as if I needed to just go for it I went for the jugs (big holds) above the roof. Not quite being high enough with hands and feet yet, I came up short causing me to take a fall. After a big scream and a quick laugh I decided to just go for it again rather than lowering knowing I had one more good climb to come afterwards and needed energy for it. I was able to finish the rest of the climb without any further falls, which in my mind was AWESOME…being that I never thought before this trip I would be climbing 7a+ (5.12a) much less leading them. Kelsey went for it again but again took a fall at the crux. Knowing we still had more climbing ahead of us, she happily finished the rest of the climb calling it good. Again, Robyn decided to listen to her exhausted body and take her harness off and head into town on the motor bike for some exploring rather than risk injury from overuse. 

Down a bit from “Buffalo Love” was a climb that I have been looking at for a few days and had on my “want to climb” list. “Chasing Double Rainbows” was another 6c+ (5.11c) which also had been down graded from a 7a ( 5.11c). I was told it was one of the best quality climbs at its grade and a must do even though not considered one of the classics of Cat Ba (a list of favorites from past climbers and employees of the rock shop). And that it was! A beautiful climb moving through three completely different climbing styles as you moved up the wall. It started off with a blank face with only enough holds to get you through it, over a small roof, into balance moves on tufas, and ending with a tricky crack with limited good holds. Although tired already from the other two climbs, I was able to send it on my first go with no issues. Exhausted mentally and physically, I made it to the top and clipped my last anchors of Cat Ba. Being such a smooth and enjoyable climb, I wanted to end it there on a high note. Even if I had wanted to project another climb, Im not sure if I would have been able. Kelsey gave it a go and did well on it too. 

Afterwards, I got her to get on “Cracker Jack” a 6c (5.11a) and a classic that I found to be pure fun. She kicked butt on it and it kicked hers as well. Before leaving the Valley for our last time we both needed to get a warm down in so we opted for one of the easiest climbs but yet most unique called “Roots Reggae”. This climb literally goes up the roots of a tree growing off the edge of the wall. Once done we packed our things and enjoyed our last walk through the field of cows talking about the amazing day we had just had climbing. Before leaving, I took a few more minutes to sit in the grass and admire the beautiful piece of rock jutting out of the valley. Smiling, I thought about the near 40 climbs I had done in the two weeks while in Cat Ba.

On our last full day, we decided to spend it relaxing, packing and exploring a little more of the island. We cruised over to Cat Co 4, a beach with an abandoned resort on it that is empty most of the time. We had bought a paddle ball set in Tonsai and when ever we needed an off day activity, paddle ball was the answer. You would never guess that we have been playing it for almost 3 months with our back and forth but it’s all good fun. Kelsey randomly pulled up to the beach as well and joined us. Then not to long later, three young kids just out of school came running down with pellet guns shooting each other. Kids on Cat Ba love saying the english words  when they know them and are around westerners. Usually this is just “HELLO” but these little guys had a few more fun ones like “what the hell!” They were hilarious! They showed off by arm wrestling and doing a pretend boxing match. We tried to show them thumb wresting and rock-paper-scissors but they liked arm wrestling better. When they got bored with that, they stole our phones and tried to add us on Facebook. Before they left they tried to teach us to count in vietnamese and laughed at our poor attempt to speak a tonal language. 

That night we headed out for drinks with the “climbing crew”. We went to our favorite bar/only bar we ever went to just above the rock shop. We drank beer, played cards, shot pool and shared a few laughs and stories of the past few weeks spent together. 

Yummy...Frog Legs!

Today was simple. We woke up, ate our last meal on the island, and headed off back to Hanoi. We ended up taking a bus to a ferry to another bus. Five hours later and a lot easier than getting to Cat Ba, we were in Hanoi. We went back to the same hostel we had stayed in when we first arrived, dropped off our gear and headed out for a walk around the city. We had a mission to find the only two legit outdoor stores in Hanoi and buy really awesome climbing/hiking pants for super cheap. I would have to say we definitely accomplished that mission! Robyn scored two pairs of pants and myself one, costing less than a forth of what we would pay in the states for them. 

Getting close to dinner time, we headed back in the direction of our hostel to find some street food, the only other goal for our short visit to Hanoi. We again succeeded and found a nice spot with some interesting items on the menu. These included fried frogs and whole birds (not chicken). I decided I had to get something weird and unusual so I opted for fried frogs which I was a little nervous for. It was a plate with legs, skin, spine, and other parts of the frog I could not quite figure out, all which was really tasty. It really proved that you can fry anything and it will taste amazing. 

Tonight we went to the free beer happy hour and enjoyed our last moments in Vietnam. Tomorrow we head back to Thailand for a tour of the northern region. We start off at a climbers’ camp just 2 hours north of Bangkok before heading further north. Stay tuned for we are headed back to the land of curry, bahts, and well established climbing sites.

Want To See More....

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Climbing Terms...Huh?

2/18

It has been pointed out to us that although we fully understand everything we are writing, you folks (friends and family) back home may not know what we are talking about when it comes to climbing. We apologize for this and hopefully this will explain just exactly what we are doing:

When we rock climb we have to use lots of gear. This includes a rope, harnesses, helmets, climbing shoes and quickdraws. The rope keeps us attached to the wall so we do not fall to the ground. The harness attaches us to the rope and the helmet of course keeps our brain protected. Quickdraws are two carabiners attached together with a piece of webbing, one that attaches to a bolt (a piece of metal attached to the wall) and the other clips into the rope. 

Quickdraws and other gear

As we climb one of us heads up with the rope attached as the other feeds rope out of a device called a belay device (a device that catches the rope with friction if the climber takes a fall.). Once you have left the ground, you use your quick draws to attach the rope to the wall to keep you safe. This process is called lead climbing. At any point, the leader can fall at most twice as far as the distance to the most recently placed quickdraw. To give an example of the risk here; if a leader is ten feet above the last bolt, a fall will be a minimum of twenty feet. Realistically, the fall would likely include several more feet due to rope elasticity and slack. This is what we refer to as a “Whipper” Once to the anchors, a set of bolts with steel rings we attach into these and get lowered back to the ground. When we are both done with the route we must retrieve all of our quickdraws, a process called cleaning the route.

In rock climbing, climbers give a grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climb. Different areas with climbing each have their own grading system, and many different nationalities developed their own, distinctive grading systems.There are a number of factors that contribute to the difficulty of a climb including the technical difficulty of the moves, the strength and stamina required, the level of commitment, and the difficulty of the protection. At times the bolts that you clip are very spread out making the climb more committing because the falls get greater and greater with more spread. 

Guide Books

Different grading systems consider these factors in different ways, so no two grading systems are treated the same Climbing grades are inherently subjective. They may be the opinion of one or a few climbers, often the first ascent gets the rights to grade the route or the author(s) of a guidebook work together to determine the grade. A grade for an individual route may also be a consensus reached by many climbers who have climbed the route. While grades are usually applied fairly consistently across a climbing area, there are often perceived differences between routes due the nature of each climb. Because of these variables, climbers might find a route to be either easier or more difficult than expected for the grade applied

The system used in the US consists of five classes indicating the technical difficulty of the hardest section. We refer to our system as the Yosemite decimal system. Class 1 is the easiest and consists of walking on even terrain. Class 2 is walking on less even terrain with elevation change. Class 3 usually requires scrambling over boulders and rocks. Class 4 requires scrambling rocks and walking on trail with exposure and potential danger if you fall. Class 5 is climbing on vertical or near-vertical rock, and requires skill and a rope to proceed safely. In this grade un-roped falls would result in severe injury or death. This is the grade in which we are dealing with when climbing here in Southeast Asia and also when we climb back in the states. In our blog you will also see the french system being noted simply because thats what is used on this side of the world.

Global grade system chart

The original intention was that the classes would be subdivided decimally, so that a route graded 4.5 would be a scramble halfway between 4 and 5, and 5.9 would be the hardest rock climb. Increased standards and improved equipment meant that climbs graded 5.9 in the 1960s are now only of moderate difficulty. Rather than regrade all climbs each time standards improve, additional grades were added which originally only went to 5.10, but it soon became apparent  that more grades were needed as climbers became better. Further grades of 5.11and 5.12 and higher were added. While the top grade used to be 5.10, a large range of climbs in this grade were completed, and climbers realized a subdivision of the upper grades was needed. Letter grades were added for climbs at 5.10 and above by adding a letter "a" (easiest), "b", "c", or "d" (hardest).

The system considers the technical difficulty of the hardest move on a route. For example, a route may be 5.7 moves most of the way but have one 5.11b move so it would be graded 5.11b. A climb that consisted of 5.11b moves all along its route would also be 5.11b. Modern application of climbing grades, especially on climbs at the upper end of the scale (5.10 and up), also consider how sustained or strenuous a climb is, in addition to the difficulty of the single hardest move. Often times guide books describe the climbs in details so you know what to expect. It will tell you whether it has one or two hard moves know as the “Crux” or if the climb is hard the whole way.

Before this trip, Robyn and I were climbing in the 5.8- 5.10 range. A 5.10 grade would give us difficulty at times making us rest at bolts before continuing. Now that we have been climbing for two months we are both climbing much harder. I have started climbing in the 5.11-5.12a range and Robyn has become much more confident the higher 5.10 range. As we continue to write this blog we will try and further explain any climbing terms/slang we use. Thanks for reading and continue to enjoy!

Climbin', whippin' and twistin'

2/17
Another day in paradise. Robyn and I woke up later than usual but in time to catch breakfast at our favorite spot, “My Way”. We had a wonderful dish of eggs, vegetables and bread. There we met up with a Canadian friend, Kelsey, from our travels and made plans to head off to a climb site know as the Cave. Robyn and I have been there once before and had a few more climbs we wanted to do. After downing our coffee and finishing our breakfast we took off on our motorbikes through the town and up to the neighborhood where we would park our rides.

After parking, Robyn, Kelsey, and I walked up through the home that gave us access to the trail that led to the climbing crag. Once there, we hopped on a 6a+ called “Love Handles” which went smooth for all of us. After that we bumped over to “Sheltered Nook” a 6b which I led first. All went well until the last moves to the anchor. I miss the obvious holds right of the bolt line and tried to use the crimps that were in line with the bolts and anchors. After a few good falls, I finally found the holds on the right and made my way successfully to anchors before lowering. Robyn decided after the first climb that it would be better to rest today and giver her body a much needed break from climbing. 

Kelsey cruised the 6b and decided she wanted to climb on the other side of the cave and do some routes that I had already done on our last visit. She started off on the 6b called “Breakout” named because the much needed holds at the bottom how now broken off. At fist she started off fine but as she moved from the second to third bolt landed on a bad hold causing her to fall. “FALLING” she yelled, as she slipped off the wall down past the second and then first bolt. Hearing this I took in as much rope as I could before being slammed into the wall and jerked off the ground. In a flash we were both floating in mid air, her close to a boulder she almost decked on and me dangling while managing to hold tight to the rope in the belay device. We sorted things out quickly and back on the route she went. She moved through the climb smoothly after this and was able to complete it without any other issues. 

We finished our time at the cave with a fun 6a called “Sling Swing” which involves big moves on good jugs through Tufa and stalactites. Kelsey and I cruised through the climb but in the end came in to trouble as we tried to pull the rope. Our rope which is on its last leg has been creating issues ever since we arrived in Southeast Asia. This time she decided to twist uncontrollably and create a tangle that took all three of us and around 20 minutes time to sort out. Eventually we were able to get the rope to behave and coil it up before heading back down the hill and through a locals house back to our bikes.

Being past lunch, Robyn and I decided to go back to town, drop off our climbing stuff, and get some grub. Once done with our rice plates we headed out to the national park for a hike that leads to a peak overlooking most of the islands mountains. We arrived with only an hour before they close. At first we were told it was too late but after a short conversation we convinced them that we were capable of getting up and down the mountain within the hour. We payed and quickly headed out. A fast pace led us up the trail and to the top within twenty minutes. We took a few minutes to take video and pictures before heading back down. We cruised and were able to make it back to our bike before 5pm which is when the park closed. 

Leaving the park, we headed back to town where we ended up taking a random left turn which took us through a neighborhood and ended at a spot we thought was a temple or shrine. As we headed up the path we quickly realized we were in fact in a cemetery. Unlike the ones in the states Vietnamese either build terraced plots which are divided by generations or beautiful temple like structures to honor their dead ancestors. We walked around a bit and enjoyed the views that over looked the city of Cat Ba. After a bit, we got spooked being surrounded by deceased  people so we headed back down through the neighborhood waving to the locals. We soon were back in town where we grabbed some snacks and beverages from the market and headed to our balcony.

We are now enjoying a nice rum and coke before grabbing dinner. Off to Butterfly Valley tomorrow for one last day of climbing. We both have a few more projects we want to accomplish tomorrow before leaving the island. Wish us luck! 

Thailand is our next stop where we will be visiting three different spots to climb up north as well as exploring mountains, villages, and cities. Almost half way done but more adventures to come.  So far our favorites from Vietnam are the coffee, dried ginger, and friendly people. And we are most looking forward to being back in the land of amazing curry and being just a few weeks closer to being in NEPAL!!!

Moody Beach

2/16

Today was a wonderful day. The weather was cool and a bit overcast meaning a perfect day to climb hard. We decided to change it up a bit and head some where new. Being such a good day for climbing, we decided to wake up early, grab breakfast, and head down to the docks to get a private boat to one of the islands in Halong Bay. We knew that we wanted to head to one of two beaches, these being Moody or Tiger beach. 

Upon arriving on our motor bike we parked and walked up to the numerous boat captains waiting to take tourist out. Being in climbing helmets with backpacks on our backs, the captains already had an idea of what we were wanting to do. A few hand motions simulating climbing and a bit of broken language led us to a gentleman who was willing to take us out to Moody Beach for a good price. Robyn and I had a budget we wanted to stick to and without needing to negotiate, he named our price. We hopped on board after double checking the time frame in which he was willing to take us and bring us back. 

We were off heading through the floating village and out to the bay of islands. On our way out our captain, named Thang, asked us many questions. We had a great conversation in broken english about where we were from, how old we were, and even whether or not Robyn and I were married. He was a funny guy who surprisingly knew a lot about the climbing scene in Cat Ba/ Halong Bay. He even gifted us some candies and snacks as we cruised through the beautiful bay. He pointed out different points of interest such as remote beaches, fishing boats, resorts and other climbing areas as we headed to Moody Beach.

Thirty minutes later we had arrived to Moody Beach, where he dropped anchor and drifted in close to a cluster of rocks with ropes attached. Since it was low tide it was quite tricky for him to get us close enough to get off with out getting wet or damaging the hull of his boat. Being a good captain with lots of experience he did this with little to no problem. Once against the rocks he hopped off and helped us gather our climbing gear and get to the beach. We took a few minutes to take videos with our Go Pro and pictures with our phones before heading over to climb.

We decided to head to the far left side of the beach and move right through the climbs in hopes to get them all in before our agreed time to leave which was around 2pm. Our first climb was listed as a classic and that it was, a 5a (5.8) called “Mao De”. It was a good warm up with wonderful views of the bay. I then decided to hop on the hardest climb on the beach, another classic in the guide book, called “Barefoot Vietnamese” a 6b+ (5.10d). It was a wonderful climb that ended in a pumpy athletic roof. During the climb as I yelled it out our boat captain yelled with me and kept screaming “COME ON!” This became a theme through the morning as our boat captain stuck around for our first two climbs of the day cheering us on and taking tons of pictures. He was extremely interested in our gear and what we were climbing. Between climbs we spent time talking with him about the climbs and other aspects of climbing including the gear involved.

After a while he left to grab lunch an pick up one of his younger sons. At this point Robyn and I had the beach to ourselves. This was a neat feeling, being at a crag on a beautiful beach on a private island in the middle of Halong Bay. All you could hear as you climbed was the crashing waves, birds chirping, and the occasional boat off in the distance. It was a unique experience that both Robyn and I truly appreciated.

The rest of the day was spent climbing a few other enjoyable climbs including another classic in the guide book. The other classic was a 5c (5.9+) called “Honeymooner’s Delight” Although the climbing wasn't as hard as it was in Butterfly Valley, the quality of routes and the scenery was hard to beat. As we ended the last climb our boat captain came back with his son, a young guy with lots of energy and curiosity of what we were doing.

After we finished the climb the young kid helped pull our rope and gather our gear with great enthusiasm. Of course, we had to pause and take pictures with him and his dad before leaving. I let him wear my helmet and harness full of quick draws which he loved! He even carried some of our gear back to the boat. Once on the boat the youngster took over as captain, pulled in the anchor and steered us back to the docks.

On the way back we ended up switching boats for some unknown reason, but as usual it worked out and we ended up with the same captain and his son (with our gear this time). Once back at the docks we payed up and grabbed the motorbike. As we headed out with the motorbike we were asked to pay for climbing/parking which was unexpected and after further investigation, we realized it was a scam so we split.

Once back in town, we dropped off our gear, grabbed some grub at one of our favorite spots and headed up to the cannon fort, a fort used in the Vietnam war era. Its at the top of a mountain giving good views of the whole island and surrounding ones in Halong Bay. We enjoyed a stroll through history as the sun set in the bay. 

Cat Ba has continued to amaze us and we look forward to our last few days here. Another day in Butterfly Valley tomorrow followed by a trek through the national park the following day before we head back to Hanoi to catch a plane back to Thailand. Wish us luck and stay tuned for more stories of our adventures! 

Climb on

2/13-2/15

Golden tree snake 

So we are back on the wall! With our friend Abdul that we met in Thehkek, Laos, we head to butterfly valley yet again. We are ticking off a lot of climbs in the valley, soon we will be out of climbs within our grade. We worked on a few of 6b’s as we had a chill day hanging with Abdul. Austin got on a 6b called Very Tot which became very interesting. After the first three bolts he ran into a snake on the wall, hidden in a crack just next the the climb. The beautiful yellow and black patterned little guy turned out to be a golden tree snake or a flying snake. They are nonvenomous but are quick to move and can jump out and grab things mid air. Of course, we didn’t know this at the time so after Austin spotted the snake he flew up two more bolts. He made it up to the last bolt before the anchor and was about to clip and be safe when his hand starte

d to slip. He tried to down climb but missed a foot hold, slipped off the rock and with his foot behind the rope he got flipped upside down as he fell. Abdul was belaying him and expertly gave Austin a bit of slack so if he fell he would clear a large tufa that was below him. Consequently Austin fell head first down almost half the climb but cleared all the hazards along the way. He swung in open space after letting out the highest pitch scream I have ever heard from a man. Still, after such a huge whipper, he was able to finish the climb but was a bit rattled for the rest of the day.

Abdul resting like a seal

The next day, we went back to our trusty spot. I made it my goal to start leading up more 6b’s and had a couple of climbs already picked out. I successfully made it up 3 climbs and now have 3 projects to ‘scend (climb with out falling). Austin followed up two of the climbs so that we could retrieve our quickdraws with ease and ended up leading a climb that he had fallen on the day before just shy of the anchors. He cruised the climb and was able to put it in the guide book as a proper ‘scend. After I finished my three climbs for the day, Austin was feeling well rested and decided to go for a climb called “Cracker Jack” a 6c (5.11a). He had been talking about this climb since we arrived to the valley on the first day but kept passing it saying he needed to be in the right mind and feeling good about it. I guess today was the day and he so he tied into the rope, chalked up and gave it a go. The start was steep with plenty of jugs making it wildly pumpy. He pushed through the first half the climb with ease and found a great knee bar before moving up to an awkward rest just below a over hung roof. Once pass this he quickly made his way to the next rest spot where he was able to sit in a cave and take a breather. The final few bolts were run out and continuous but soon he was at the jug next to the anchor. With the last bit of strength he was able to clip bolts and let out a celebratory yell! 

Nearing dark we headed on out and ended our day with a nice meal and a few well deserved beers. Bed time came pretty early for both of us being that we were both exhausted and needed some rest before tackling the valley again the next day.

This morning we woke up sore and therefore had a slow morning. We eventually made our way to a great cafe know as “My Way” for brunch which was absolutely amazing. Afterwards, we grabbed out passes and off to the valley we went. 

My new friends

Needing to warm up a bit we decided it would be best for Austin to retackle “Elephant Man” a 6b+ (5.10d) that he had fallen at the crux on a few days earlier. He started off smooth but once again got stumped at the crux (the hard part of the climb). A few scrambles back and forth and a few hand and foot adjustments opened up the sequence and him to advance through the crux. Now all he had to do was stay focused and finish the climb with out any slip ups. He had one close call but was able to save it and advanced all the way to the anchors giving him a ‘scend of the route. 

I went for my project but half way wasn't feeling it so came off to give my arms and mind a rest before giving it my all. In this time, Austin decided to go after a 6c+ (5.11b) called “Bolts are us”. He did wonderful until the huge dino (a jumping motion to the next hold). He went for the move but came up short. After a rest and a study of the route he went for it and made the move. Soon after he was at anchors with a big smile, although he did not ‘scend it, he was happy about making it to the top.

After this I decided I was ready to give my project another go. I had a smooth start and found good rest before the last few bolts which was the crux of the climb. A deep breath and off I went clipping the bolts through the hard part. After I successfully got the last draw in I knew I was so close to accomplishing my goal. Two high feet and a big reach to a not so good hold unlock the sequence. I had made it through the crux! Now all I had to do was step up to the ledge and clip the anchor. Before going to it I took a deep breath and made sure my hands and feet were solid. Clipping bolts was a wonderful feeling, the wave of emotion was powerful. I had successfully led my first 6b clean all the way! 

Austin wanted to cool down a bit so we agreed on getting back on a classic climb called “Mother Butterfly a 6a+ (5.10b). He led it with ease and I followed and cleaned the route. Man is it a wonderful line. Feeling good about our day and our success we decided to call it there and head back for a beer and some life maintenance time at our hotel. We are here now relaxing and enjoying a movie. Tomorrow the plan is to rent a boat and go out to the bay for some beach climbs. Stay tuned as we are sure there will be tales of adventure to share about this unique experience in Halong Bay. Until then….. 

Access Denied

2/11-2/12

Words from the recovering sick kid (Robyn)

Bodies have a funny way of telling you SLOW DOWN! The past couple of off days we have had were to help me recover from a darn common cold. Austin had to brave the pharmacy where language barriers get taken to a whole new level. He did get his hands on some decongestant and cough suppressant after acting out the best he could my symptoms. It is really easy here to get what you need without a prescription, everything is over the counter. The pharmacist even tried to give Austin Valium when he attempted to act out what a sore throat and sinus head aches looked like! 

After a day and half off from climbing, we decided to head to a climb spot called “The Farm”. The Farm is close enough to town you can even walk there. Lucky us though, we hopped on our motor bike and cruised down a residential road that turned into a dirt path. Our guide book told us to leave our bike to the side of the path and walk on in. The Farm, like a majority of Cat Ba’s climb spots, was on private property. Because of this, sometimes you have to pay to access the area. We were told we were good to go but if someone does approach you, it might be a small charge. As we gathered our stuff to continue on foot, a local man drove up on his bike shaking his head no. We showed him our guide book and made the sign for rock climbing but he told us “No”, pulled out his cell phone and made a call. Austin was given the phone with the local business owner for a new climb/tour shop in town on the other end. He explained that we had to buy a pass through his shop and was very confused on how we new about the area. There were a lot of miscommunications due to language barriers over the phone so the the fella hung up saying “I will just meet you out there.” Austin gave the phone back to the owner of the farm and just looked at me confused. I gave him the “lets just go look” and with a nod we both apologized to the owner and headed out on our bike. On our way back to town we passed a westerner and a local on a bike, doing a double take when we passed. Climbers here stick out like a sore thumb with our obscure shaped packs and climbing helmets on. 

We cruised back to where our buddies worked and where we got our guide book to re-plan our day. As we got off the bike behind us pulled in the two fellas (the same ones who took a double take) on a bike who turned out to be the owners of the new climb shop in town. They asked us a bit aggressively what we were doing in the farm and how we even knew about it. We showed them our guide book and that we were told by other climbers that we were fine to go there. They gave the book a bit of a guffaw, explaining that there are way more routes then our book depicts and that the climb shop shouldn’t be sending people out there (even though they were the ones who had bolted the wall). If we wanted to go we had to buy a pass through them (the two on the bike) and park in a designated area where we would turn it in at the sight (none of which is set up yet-so we would of likely been told to leave either way). They became very apologetic (again motor bike guys), explaining that they want climbers to come and enjoy the climbs at the farm. They urged us to come over to their shop and get a pass at which point we simply told them we would come by another day and needed a minute to plan our day. 

This whole conversation took place in front of the climb shop that  our buddies worked at and who had established the rest of the climbing areas in Cat Ba. So once they had left we turned around and retold the whole story to several employees/friends that were sitting and watching the whole thing. The employees at the climb shop told us their perspective to this small town political problem which left us in a situation where it would be silly to choose sides so we were better off just going to climb else where. (We apologize if this was confusing for we did not feel comfortable mentioning the names of the two shops involved.)

After witnessing what felt like a child custody battle, we headed off the trusty butterfly valley. Austin warmed up on a 6a and pushed me to top rope it. I floundered around for a while, feeling like a goopy sick-kid, then decided to just belay for the day. Luckily Josh, one of the employees, from our trusty climb shop, came upon us and asked to join. I was happy to slide off my harness and watch Josh push Austin to his limit.  Josh is a really strong climber and was climbing 7a’s and 7b’s while recovering from an injury.  At the end of the day, Austin led a 7a (5.11c/d), 7a+(5.12a), a 6c+ (5.11d), and top roped another 7a. After that he could barely grip the accelerator on the motor bike to get us home.  

After a day like that, we planned on taking it easy for a day. Thank god it was raining to keep us off the wall. We tried our best to have a proper rest day just eating food and laying low but after the rain subsided we had to get just one climb in so we cruised over to Ban Bao which is a harbor town within walking distance from Cat Ba town. Our buddies who work out here live at a hotel on the water and right next to the wall we climbed. While climbing mist continue to blow in and tourist crowded the dock taking pictures. Feeling uncomfortable do to weather and pressure of tourist watching, we got in one wet route and called it good. The climbing continues! Its been a fun way to explore this island so far!